Overprinting , print and digital print

I have been working on photoshop and the step and repeat to create fabric designs that I can use for upholstery or cushions and having had them digitally printed was unsure of some of the designs.The robin one is very robin dominated and some of the others worked well on paper (as seen on the board on my desk) but when it came to fabric I think I either had some of the colours wrong ie they were incompatible with the digital process (something I have now learned to check )or the scale or the repeat drop was not quite right .I therefore felt able to experiment and manually overprinted them with a simple brach design that I have been using to create other pieces (and to make new ties for the Manchester Crafts Centre) which integrates and adds to the design.Although I still have a long way to go with this I feel it is beginning to work .

Postcard 16

Li Edelkoort "Imagine"

I have been fortunate enough to be a student helper at the Li Edelkort Trend Predictions for Fashion and Lifestyle 2010. Held at RIBA in London ,Li gave a two hour presentation with visuals and music on the trends for the future with attendance from some of the top design companies and designers from shops such as Marks and Spencers and Habitat. I have attached a brief summary of my notes from this , no visuals but it does give an idea of how she sees design developing . Given the current climate this was a very positive response with a move towards a more intimate way of shopping and living in general and more interest in designer made one off or small batch pieces . I agreed with her when she said that people were tired of the same high street scenario and tired of attending the same big venue fashion shows , which is good news for us up and coming designers . There is a move towards a more intimate way of living .

(The new 20/20 Signals forecast book also offers insight into future consumer trends and their impact on product design. )

Summer 2010:Questioning the way we do things will cause a turn around in both product and system levels.
Fundamental changes require courage and persistence; it's about "blue sky thinking" and conveying a spirit of the possible and the positive’ old patterns, structures and conventions...'

Li Edelkort Trend prediction 2010 18/11/08
at RIBA London Hosted by KMAssociates for Fashion and Lifestyle.

Overview
Key words
Hope/vision/optimism
She predicts a world change through the change in the American presidency, which will rekindle our love of the USA.
There is a new generation at work, a new way of communicating that is DIRECT and INTIMATE
This will serve as an example to companies to become closer to their employees and consumers. .
Fashion maps out crises before they bite as in the oil crisis in the 70s fashion where chunky knits were the order of the day. Tokyo/London and Paris show for spring /summer this year is still optimistic.
There is a more rural aspect but not severe.
Things are still moving in the art and design world new films /artists / venues some even thriving on the recession.
Fashion is in for a bumpy ride but it will survive. There is a moody volatile market.
But there is enough to go round. We need to take the lowest point as the norm as to how things should be and not get carried away by what is happening.

There will be a return to AUTHENTICITY.
Back to truth and conviction.

See View on Colour 23 Spring summer 08 Osmosis.
Current is the grey card of life and monochromes,
“Grey is the new black “ and may be over the next ten years.
In winter 2010/2111 grey is again the core of the season.
Grey but not mousy.
There will be lots of rain so RAINWEAR is key .
Winter)* leggings, scarves/foodies /veils/ masks covering up almost hiding.
“Everyone knows the ship is sinking”
There is a return to more intimate gatherings cabaret rather than huge venues / intimacy/ a positive spin off.
Summer 09 created listening to acoustic African music. – Dungarees/work wear/indigo/jeans/travel/middle eastern influences/green revolution/
Look at Vivienne Westwood and Comme De Garcons.
The RED carpet will become GREEN.
There will be new words/ more words used by journalists a move from urban to pastoral
Flights of fantasy
Reflect reality.

NEW SEASON 2010 Fashion

2010 will be more positive.
Creativity is the only way of survival Fashion is becoming more daring but the systems are wrong. The shows take up too much time people not wanting to attend. The same is true of retail.
We want to HUNT rather than SHOP to buy things not so readily available. We need new ways to trigger excitement / something unique /exciting /not forever.
The FAIR is the retail of the future. The caravan / souk.
(An aside from me - at the knit and Stitch show in London this year there was a van/caravan at the back of the hall with a woman who had a variety of recycled reformed jewellery clothes etc very different to the norm of formal stalls)
The change will be more interaction with consumers
The latest BLOOM magazine is IMAGINE and is
How beautiful can we make things?
Our creativity will see us through. The season is wonderful full of ideas
There was then a visual presentation of images to music and pages of brief text underlining the various trend predictions for Fashion 2010
FOLDED PAPER
Layered /fluid/poured
Lightweight cottons /origami
Using the colours of paper and card a s a palette
It’s about construction folding in form
Plisse/pintucking/perforation/tyvekflocking and reverse pleating
BLUR- a mist a cloud layers of transparency
Elegant but nondescript- discreet-fine linen and organdie
The shirt takes the place of tee shirts
Slub yarns – faded colours –tinted white –crinkle effects-viscose and acetate

ANDROGENOUS
Reference to Greek and roman history sculpted bodies –soft stone sculptures pleat in detail-soft stone colours –marbled motifs- powdery colours- double weave silks – archaeological remnants- irregular and weathered –togas-tone on tone –detail in gold- stain effect-ethnic jewellery-couture

BLEU EN BLEU
Improvisation- stained floral-stripes – ticking-dots- scribble scenario-staining and dyeing-carbon copy- INDIGO but double dyed deep blue-lustre and shine –HANDDRAWN—tone on tone weaving free and fantasy

PHOTOGRAPHIC

An ode to POLAROID, which is no more.
Therefore photo albums are making a comeback- reto dots –small motifs-
Double crepe yarns-twill-neutral-fluid fabrics-avant gard- painted emotions-colour as cloth-crepe – placed motifs script messages- a story

TACHISTIC
(Tachisme was a reaction to cubism and is characterized by spontaneous brushwork, drips and blobs of paint straight from the tube, and sometimes scribbling reminiscent of calligraphy.)
Yellow is the new black.
Super world violent –print on the warp- cut canvas- script – bold print black on white-POLLOCK- crazy floral- dense neutrals-crudely painter- 100% design driven- sketched essentials-solid basic pieces of clothing
WATERCOLOUR FLORALS
INSPIRED BY THE PAINTINGS of Van Gogh-soft blouses and full skirts-hand painted canvas as quality- -soft colours – rabane and raffia
Yellow is the new pink.
ILLUSTRATED ILLUSIONS
(Listen to Kate Bush Song “Birds”)
Fairy tale graphics – elves/angels/fairies etc
Delicate/airy/floating
Narrative and illustration and painting
Eyelets /embroidery/embellished fabric
Summer –romantic-blurred – skirts and shirts
Fantasy princess. Dolls and cuddles
EMBROIDERED AUTONOMY
Crafted ideal - illustrative
Art for vocabulary on print - a storyline-
Not just embellishment woven
Personalised /customised/mending and embroidery

COLLAGE
CREATIVE/ BLOCKPRINTED/MADE BY HAND/ STRONG COLOURS
Saturated ethnic colours bold patterns
Tie dye and hand painting / paste/smock glue embroider cut and paste recreate
Eclectic/eccentric
Bark cloth patterns- indigo
Collage culture- sampling – everything is collage
Goodies the consumer can assemble on their own
Inspiration from Peru/ Africa/Asia
Random pattern rules
Damask/pique
URBANISED FOLKLORE
MAPPING LIFESTYLE
Mapping in designs in all of its possibilities.
The map of life
Veins –mental map- constellations
Clear; landscape- finding direction
TAILORING is important
Abstract
Another colour hem or sleeve
Casual
DETAILS OF THE SEASON
Blur
Stain
Abstracted
Stripes
Dots
Super sophisticated basics
Micro patterns
The need for fiction











LIFESTYLE TRENDS 2010

Well-being is the key for 2011/12/13
Creating a temple / church/ monastery for your own mind
Influences from creative design for well-being
THE ART OF BEING
Our inner creative selves
An atelier of sculpture
“One can have no smaller mastery than the mastery of oneself.”
Morally/ physically/visually/body and mind
“Modelling our own condition by kneading.”
Skin colours
Organic sculpture forms for wrapping things
Veil- elasticise
Compact yet soft
Soft colours
Food will be sculpted and kneaded
Stretching
Super lightweight tools
Neutral colours
Layering of materials
Terry cloth/warmth

THE STUDIO OF ARCHITECTURE
“Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature it will never fail you “
Frank Lloyd Wright

Erecting identity through light
Connecting ethics and aesthetics
. Sustainable
. Authentic
A lasting aesthetic
. Geometric form
Outer/ inner design become one
A realisation of the soul

Beauty products will be fresh and refrigerated
Using photography to create space
Rhythm / floating
Sound/light treatments

THE FARM OF BEAUTY
Industrial buildings
Bringing nature in going out into nature
Repeating
Natural materials
Wood/ metal/ stone/ felt/ glass/ ceramics
Bodies slender not pumped up
Co- creating form biologically

SCHOOL OF CALLIGRAPHY
The abandonment of oneself in favour of cosmic fusion
Knit/ jersey in furniture and fashion
Preserving food
Tone on tone embedded forms
Very EAST meets WEST
Mud / dark colours
Calligraphy – precise- graphic
Distinctly Japanese

ACADEMY OF ABSTRACTION
Jackson Pollock
“Every good painter paints what he is.”
Creative approach to packaging
Intuition and biorhythms
Ballet training clothes
Neutral palettes
Bright accent colours

CABINET OF CURIOSITY
Glamorous environments
Collections
Curious- crystals metals bones feathers
Groomed
Silks/ embroidery/fantasy/nostalgic

A WORLD OF FOLK
STAVANGER 2008-11-20
FOLK/ FASHION
Dots stains patterns dolls sleeves
Form follows décor
Blue delft motifs on bodies
Northern lights
Tord Boontje bestseller of all time thanks to Tom Dixons vision co creating with the public
A revival of knit
“Forged by heart and hand”
She showed a variety of current important designers
PetEr Marigolds shelving
Alabama Chalin s clothes (?)
Kristine Forns embroidery
Landscape wallpaper
Karin Frankenstein s furniture
Horticulture
Recycling botanical carpets
Felting
Craft as important as design global colourful aspect
Infusion of different aesthetics
] Drawing lace on stone
Glass making a comeback
North/south I a marrimekko mood
Folklore
Her parting words were JUST UNDO IT

Postcard 15

After a long break I have resumed my postcards .

Wildwood

"Wildwood, a journey through trees " by Roger Deakin is on my Christmas wish list .It is one of the most profound , informative and entertaining books on the natural world that I have ever read and the author is not only extremely knowlegable but had a passion for his subject . He travelled this country and many others collecting information first hand on a variety of trees , my own passion and inspiration for my current body of work.The chapter titles such as the bluebell picnic and the sacred groves of Devon give an inkling of the content but have to be read to gain the true beuty of the writing. My favorite is the chapter on the walnut forests of Kyrgyzstan where life is simple and by our standards very basic but also romantically idyllic . I have no doubt that the everyday reality is somehow different .
"Everything on the farm down to the plank built drop latrine at the far corner of the land ..wqs turned to the economy of nature in an entirely unselfconscious way. .....Bees foraged in the wild fruit forests. The people went out and harvested walnuts apples and allsorts of other wildfruits and funghi from the forest.(p 512)

Deakin wanted people to appreciate the simple pleasure of being in nature :
"Why do I sleep outdoors ?Because of the random dripping of rain off the maples or ash trees over the roof of the railway wagon, or the hopping of a bird on the wet felt of the roof or the percussion of a twig against the steel stove chimney . Out there I hear the yawn of the wind in the trees along Cowpasture Lane . I feel in touch with the elements in a way I never do indoors."
(Deakin R, Wildwood , 2007 Hamish Hamilton P.12)
Unfortunately Deakin died in 2006 just after he completed the manuscripts for Wildwood but he lived an amazing life and has left a great legacy in his writings on the great outdoors . I have anther 6 pages to read and am trying my best not to finish it but it has to be back at the library for the 21st so that someone else can enjoy it !Thankyou Roger Deakin.

Cloth and Culture

Cloth and Culture an amazing touring exhibition at the Whitworth Art Gallery in Manchester These images are from the accompanying book edited by Lesley Millar available through the website and well worth investing in .
There were so many pieces that I loved both for their ideas , materials and construction methods .
One of the artists, Jun Mitsuhashi from Japan ,had this statement by his work that rang true for my own work
"I show a world which is in opposition to one of anxiety , fear and unhappiness....The essence of art is to open up peoples hearts and minds and I believe that those around positive power not negative."
The piece by Latvian artist Liva Krimina ,Nobody (photograph:P.98 Ojars Grikis, Cloth and Culture Now ,Millar Lesley ED. UCCA Canterbury 2008 )appears to be some kind of cloth of gold with delicately created images of knights in armour is actually constructed from black garbage bags silk screened and heat pressed.There is so much symbolism , references to tapestry to a lost forgotten army to the present problems we now have with plastics particularly the garbage bags that everone uses once and then throws away but are not biodegradeable .
Lina Jonike's Architectural Monument (p131 photo Lina Jonike,Cloth and Culture Now ,Millar Lesley ED. UCCA Canterbury 2008 ) with its beautiful sepia tones and hand embroidered blue flowers creates a narrative that combines personal experience with cultural influences .
There are too many to show here you need to see this for yourself and read the book !It has helped me to understand the subconscious and conscious references I use in my own work from my own culture and experiences .

Eden Project Workshop

Our box















We had an interesting day at the Eden Project doing a workshop with the Creative Director of Wildworks Sue Fox . The brief was to take in 7 items that you would grab having been told you had to leave all your possessions bar 7 .

’You are leaving home. You don’t know if you will ever return. You are part of an exodus into an unknown future.

Pack a small, portable box or suitcase. Choose 7 things that you think will be essential, or precious to you. You may choose intimate things that tell your story, that remind you of who you are. You may choose things without which your life would be unbearable.

I chose my camera(future events) , my India sketchbook (to remind me of my past life and Buddhism as it was the one I used on my 3 week pilgrimage last year ), a scarf (to keep me warm and one that belonged to my son obvious memories there !), a sarong (printed by me years ago that could be used as a towel/garment/shelter/blanket/garment etc),a fork (for eating /digging etc) that had family memories , a photo of my sons (ah!), and my pencil case complete with knife to records the future ( My comfort item). We did the workshop with MA Graphics some of whom had almost virtual items (cardboard cut outs)! It was fascinating to hear the different things that people chose and why.
Sue talked about Wildworks , a theatre company she is involved in and the project they are planning called "The Beautiful Journey" looking at how people engage with their world.
We then had to create , in groups, a box with an imagined future landscape (see images above)
which included a flooded landscape with people living on ice bergs , one where the cities are abandoned but foraged and a simple country life (but with individual air transport! ) with a flame of hope (our box) and one where nature takes over and the cities crumble.
As Sue said the most difficult thing was to decide what would happen /will happen as we all had very different ideas and time scales and also life is very unpredictable( so in tune with Buddhist thinking / chaos theory, the only certain thing is that things will change!). but we like to think that we are in control ( Newtonian theory of cause and effect). Little things add up to big changes we cant predict their outcomes but we can create fertility for interesting things to happen!